São Luís - Vila Maranhão, São Luís - State of Maranhão, Brazil
3 days - January 2019
Hostel
€13/person/day
€22/person
€10/person/day
€2/person/day
Nous quittons notre petit paradis pour rejoindre São Luis plus au nord.
São Luis a été fondée par les français qui ont tenté une incursion en Amérique latine en 1612. Cependant 3 ans plus tard, les français ont été mis en échec face aux portugais et durent rentrer.
Aujourd’hui São Luis garde encore les traces des conquêtes successives à travers l’architecture, la population métissée et est qualifiée de Jamaïque brésilienne car les habitants autrefois captaient les ondes jamaïcaines et découvrirent cette musique et l’adoreront immédiatement. De plus ils partagent avec la Jamaïque le poids de l’histoire des esclaves béninois envoyés par les portugais en Jamaïque et à São Luis.
De Atins à São Luis c’est 6 heures de trajet qui nous attendent: 2h de jeep dans les dunes puis 4h de mini bus. (Une nouvelle fois, personne n’est debout, une personne par siège, le chauffeur respecte le code de la route, cela nous surprendra toujours au Brésil ;) ).
Arrivés à São Luis nous rejoignons Casa Frankie dans le centre historique. Une grande maison coloniale avec de hauts plafonds, un patio avec une piscine, une façade rose très belle. Depuis le Mexique on ne se lasse pas des maisons coloniales.
Petit resto au kilo (une sorte de buffet ou l’on paie au poids!) avant de réaliser notre mission du jour: changement de tête pour Cédric! C’est avec une photo qu'il se rend chez le coiffeur pour lui montrer ce qu’il veut. Le coiffeur, un homme d’un certain âge, prend la mission très au sérieux et 30 minutes plus tard, pas de problèmes d’incompréhension , Cédric à la même tête que sur la photo (et que tous les brésiliens et footballeurs ;) nouveau surnom: Neymar senior.
São Luis ne s’éveille qu’à partir de 16h lorsque le soleil décline et que la chaleur n’est plus aussi pesante. La place principale du centre historique s’éveille, les vendeurs ambulants sortent chaises en plastique et bar à caipirinha, la musique débute et les locaux de tout âge se rejoignent pour discuter.
C’est la qu’on assistera à un show de danse crioula (danse importée par les esclaves), les jupes volent, il y a de la couleur et des sourires, décidément on adore cette ambiance !
Les maisons du centre historique sont magnifiques (bien que décrépies) avec façades en Azujelos (du carrelage à motifs) et peinture multicolore. Ce n’est pas pour rien qu’il est classé au patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO!
En face de l’île de São Luis se trouve Alcântara, petit village fondé par les français egalement et qui a gardé tout son charme (Bon c’est tout de même un peu trop calme pour nous!) On y arrive en bateau après une traversée mouvementée et rejoignons directement un petit restaurant où la mama nous dit d’aller nous asseoir sous la paillote. Très bien mais on n’y voit ni chaises ni table! Le petit-fils déboule et nous y installe, on sera les seuls clients avec une vue imprenable sur la baie ! Le plat: poisson grillé et crevettes avec plein d’accompagnements, haricots (bien entendu ils nous suivent ceux la!),riz, farine de maïs, tomates. Un délice !
Nous avons également goûté le plat typique du Nordeste-la moqueca. Crevettes cuites dans un curry de poivrons, tomates. Un délice également, on est vraiment surpris par la cuisine brésilienne !
# Nous avons dormi à Casa Frankie, une magnifique demeure coloniale pour 130 réal la nuit. Situé dans le centre historique (très important de ne pas être autre part dans la ville!)
# on a goûté la moqueca de Cafofinho da tia Dica, un délice pour 85 réal pour 2
# Alcântara est très mignonne mais trop calme. Il y a des ferry qui mettent 1h30 pour la rejoindre pour 15 réal par personne. Vérifier les horaires au port le jour même.
# restaurant Cantaria à Alcântara a ne pas manquer. Un délice !
#de Atins a Barreinhas: il y a une jeep qui part à 5h30 du matin, 2h de trajet à travers les dunes pour 25 real.
# Barreinhiras-Sao Luis: soit bus pour 51 réal (5h de trajet), soit mini van qui partent de la place principale pour 60 real, 4h30 de trajet (porte à porte).
Leave a comment
Bonneau
Feb 12, 2019 - 02:02 PM
Cela donne envie , Les plats succulents .miam
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Bonneau
Mar 1, 2019 - 06:38 AM
on revoit avec plaisir ces mets succulents (surtout quand on a faim et pas envie de cuisiner) lol bise
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